Logos on coffee abound but what do they mean?
Australians who care about coffee have been able to show they also care about coffee growers since 2003, when the Fairtrade label arrived in this country. It indicates the coffee was purchased from growers for a fair price.
The Rainforest Alliance Certified brand for sustainably grown coffee appeared here in 2005. The Cup of Excellence competition and auction recognises the world's best coffee growers with awards and higher prices and Nespresso's AAA program also rewards growers for high coffee standards and sustainable farming practices.
But Toby Smith, of Toby's Estate coffee, believes most consumers only have a general idea of what the groups do. ''I think when people see the certification, they immediately think something that's helping the people and the environment,'' he says. ''They could all almost sit under the one umbrella.''
He and other coffee buyers are concerned coffee not branded with these logos could be seen as less sustainable or ethical. But not all farmers growing high-grade coffee sustainably choose to participate in these schemes, or they may not want to pay the costs involved.
Toby's Estate, part of the giant Cerebos company, has an internal charter, SEE, which stands for social, ethical and environmental responsibility. Though a SEE logo appears on the company's website, it's not on the coffees. ''It's confusing, just another sticker on something,'' Smith says.
He also had to drop a coffee that blended Fairtrade, Rainforest Alliance and organic beans because the organisations involved were unhappy about multiple logos appearing on the coffee.
He still supports the programs and sells several Fairtrade coffees. ''Big picture, it's all pretty good intentions,'' he says.
Les Schirato, the chief executive of Cantarella Bros, which owns Vittoria Coffee, also sees the initiatives as positive but has some reservations. ''The real issue is that most people want a quick, simple answer,'' he says. ''They think, 'If I buy this pack of coffee, I know the farmer got more money for this than one that doesn't have the label on it.' But that's just not right. When people find that out, they're shocked.''
Vittoria sells an organic Rainforest Alliance certified espresso grind, which Schirato says gives consumers more choice between this label and the company's other blends. ''My non-Rainforest coffees cost me so much more,'' he says.
What is often not understood, he says, is Alliance and Fairtrade labels don't indicate the best-quality coffee and farmers don't necessarily get the highest price for them. The coffee market is at a 33-year high, with prices two to three times the minimum set by Fairtrade. ''People can't think that if they buy a Fairtrade coffee, the farmer got more money, because currently quality and higher grade coffees cost much more,'' he says.
Last month, McDonald's ran an ad campaign apologising for the quality of its McCafe coffee, all Rainforest Alliance certified. ''Whether it's Rainforest or Fairtrade, the biggest issue is people want good quality,'' Schirato says.

A FAIR GO FOR THE FARMERS

Fairtrade
Based in Bonn, Germany, the Fairtrade Labelling Organization was established in 1988. It aims to help protect farmers and growers in developing countries against global price fluctuations. Fairtrade sets minimum prices for products, including tea and cacao, to cover the costs of sustainable production. It aims to gain better prices, decent working conditions, local sustainability and fair terms of trade for farmers and workers, and has producer networks in 60 countries in Africa, Asia and Latin America.
Rainforest Alliance
Started in Costa Rica in 1992, this certification scheme encourages farmers to grow crops and manage land for the long term. The three goals are environmental protection, social equity and economic viability. Certified coffee growers must meet standards set by the Sustainable Agriculture Network, a coalition of conservation groups. Certification now also covers flowers, pineapples, tea, cacao and pepper. As of last year, 80,000 farms in 26 countries were certified.
Cup of Excellence
Begun in 1999 in Brazil, this international competition and auction rewards farmers for outstanding coffee. Eight countries entered this year including Costa Rica, Honduras and Rwanda. A jury of coffee professionals selects the top coffee produced in each country. Final winners are awarded the Cup of Excellence and the coffee is sold to the highest bidder by internet auction.
Nespresso AAA Sustainable Quality Program
Nespresso pays about 30 per cent to 40 per cent above the standard market price for high-quality coffee, grown using sustainable farming practices. The program also helps farmers improve crop quality, yields and sustainable practices and guarantees to buy the coffee as long as the quality is high enough, regardless of price fluctuations.

COFFEE MASTERS

As part of the Aroma Festival on July 31, Toby's Estate presents masterclasses with Cup of Excellence's executive director, Susie Spindler, and Hector Bonillo, a Cup of Excellence award-winning coffee farmer from Costa Rica. A six-hour class on July 30 costs $200; the one-hour session on July 31 costs $20. See tobysestate.com.au.