Bonnie Stern: Southern hospitality

Southern food is getting a boost with the release of the film The Help this week. It takes place in Jackson, Miss., in the early 1960s, and is about African-American housekeepers working for white families, and how things change when a few people challenge the code. The popularity of Southern style barbecue — and dishes such as Southern fried chicken, devilled eggs and all kinds of pies — has recently put Southern food on the culinary map. Enjoy this taste of things to come.
MINT JULEP
There’s a lot of variation when it comes to mint julep. Everyone seems to have a different version, and here’s mine. I like using Maker’s Mark bourbon for its smoky flavour, a sugar syrup to make it smooth, and mint sprigs so it’s not too minty and so that chopped mint doesn’t stick to your teeth!
Sugar syrup Bring one cup sugar and one cup of water to a boil. Simmer a few minutes. Chill. (This keeps about one month in the refrigerator.)
- 1 sprig fresh spearmint
- 2 tsp sugar syrup or more to taste
- crushed ice
- 11⁄2 oz bourbon
- 1 small sprig mint
1. Place mint in the bottom of a tall old-fashioned glass. Add sugar syrup. Muddle gently.
2. Fill glass with crushed ice to about 2 inches from the top. Pour bourbon over ice. Cut straws to fit a few inches above the glass.  Makes one serving
SMOKY DEVILLED EGGS
Devilled eggs are enjoying a big revival — perfect as an appetizer or garnish on a salad.
- 12 eggs
- 1/3 cup mayonnaise
- 1 tsp curry paste
- 1⁄2 tsp salt
- 1⁄2 tsp chipotle purée or chipotle Tabasco
Garnish
- 1 tsp smoked paprika
- arugula sprouts (or any sprouts)
1. Place eggs gently in a large saucepan of boiling salted water. When the water returns to the boil, cover and turn off heat. Let eggs sit for 14 minutes.
2. Drain eggs, rinse with cold water and gently crack shells. Soak in cold water for a few minutes but remove shells when eggs are still warm.
3. Cut eggs in half width-wise. Gently scoop out yolks. Trim the ends off the whites just so they can stand up. Place whites, cut side up, on a tray.
4. Mash yolks until smooth with mayonnaise, curry paste, salt and chipotle. Pipe back into the egg whites. Dust lightly with paprika. Arrange eggs on a bed of sprouts.  Makes 24 pieces
CHOCOLATE CREAM PIE
After reading or seeing The Help, you may think you’ll never want chocolate cream pie again. But trust me, you’ll want this one.
Pastry
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 1 tbsp sugar
- 1⁄4 tsp kosher salt
- 1⁄2 cup cold butter, cut into small pieces
- 1 egg yolk
- 1 tbsp ice water or more if necessary
Filling
- 21⁄2 cups milk
- 3⁄4 cup sugar
- 5 tbsp cornstarch
- 2 tbsp cocoa
- 2 egg yolks
- 8 oz 70% bittersweet chocolate, chopped
- 2 tbsp butter
- 1 tbsp pure vanilla extract
Topping
- 1 cup whipping cream
- shaved chocolate
1. For crust combine flour, sugar and salt in a large mixing bowl. Cut in cold butter with a pastry blender until it is in small bits. Combine egg with water. Sprinkle over flour and gather dough together in a ball. Add a bit more water if necessary. Flatten dough, wrap and refrigerate at least 1⁄2 hour. Roll dough out to an 11-inch or 12-inch circle. Fit into a 9-inch fluted, removable bottom tart pan. Fold pastry over sides to strengthen and cut away any extra. Place a piece of parchment over the bottom and up the sides. Fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake in a preheated 425F oven for 10 to 14 minutes until edges are slightly brown. Carefully remove weights and paper. Lower oven to 350F. Bake 10 minutes longer. Cool completely.
2. Make filling by heating 2 cups (500mL) milk in a large saucepan. In a medium bowl, whisk sugar, cornstarch and cocoa thoroughly. Whisk in remaining 1⁄2 cup (125mL) cold milk. Beat in egg yolks. Add hot milk to the bowl slowly, whisking constantly. Return everything to the saucepan and bring to the boil. Cook until very thick and bubbling about 3 to 4 minutes.
3. Place chopped chocolate and butter in another bowl and strain thick pudding mixture into it. Stir until chocolate is melted and smooth. Add vanilla. Cover surface directly with plastic wrap. Cool.
4. Spread chocolate mixture into fully baked pie crust. Refrigerate at least 2 to 3 hours before serving.
5. Whip cream until light. Spread over chocolate filling. Sprinkle with grated chocolate. Makes 8 to 10 servings.
Source: National Post